Fashion photography, Hasselblad Martin Kaninsky Fashion photography, Hasselblad Martin Kaninsky

Herb Ritts

"In the end, I still believe there's a place for what I do, and for the type of images I make.”

Herb Ritts (1952-2002) was an American fashion photographer known for his elegant, minimalist, and beautifully crafted images. With a career that spanned over two decades, Ritts became one of the most sought-after and respected photographers in the fashion industry. His work graced the covers of prestigious magazines like Vogue, Vanity Fair, and Rolling Stone and featured in numerous advertising campaigns for luxury brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, and Chanel.

Early Life and Career

Herb Ritts was born and raised in Los Angeles, California. He studied economics and art history at Bard College in New York, but it wasn't until he moved back to Los Angeles and started taking pictures of his friends that he discovered his passion for photography. In the late 1970s, Ritts began to work as a fashion photographer, quickly establishing his distinctive style and gaining recognition for his work. By the 1980s, he had become a leading figure in the world of fashion photography, collaborating with top models, celebrities, and designers.

Photographic Style and Techniques

Herb Ritts' photographic style is characterized by its simplicity, elegance, and strong graphic compositions. He often used natural light to create a sense of warmth and intimacy in his images, and his choice of black-and-white photography contributed to the timeless quality of his work. Ritts had a talent for capturing the essence of his subjects, whether they were models, actors, or musicians, and his portraits conveyed a sense of honesty and vulnerability that resonated with viewers.

Career Highlights

Throughout his career, Herb Ritts photographed some of the most iconic figures of his time, including Madonna, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington. He also directed music videos, such as Madonna's "Cherish" and Chris Isaak's "Wicked Game," which showcased his signature visual style. In 1991, Ritts was awarded the prestigious International Center of Photography's Infinity Award for Applied Photography. His work has been exhibited in major galleries and museums worldwide, including the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Getty Museum in Los Angeles.

Photography Gear

  • Medium format cameras: Ritts often used medium format cameras such as the Hasselblad 500C/M, which provided high-resolution images and allowed him to achieve exceptional detail in his photographs.

  • Lenses: Ritts typically used prime lenses with focal lengths ranging from 80mm to 150mm, which allowed him to create the sharp, crisp images he was known for.

  • Natural light: Ritts was a master of using natural light, often shooting outdoors or near large windows to take advantage of the available light and create a warm, intimate atmosphere in his images.

Photography Books

"Herb Ritts: L.A. Style": This book celebrates Herb Ritts' distinctive style, capturing the glamour and allure of Los Angeles through his iconic fashion and celebrity photography. For practicing photographers, the book serves as a valuable source of inspiration, showcasing Ritts' mastery of composition, lighting, and portraiture.

"Notorious": In this collection, Herb Ritts presents a captivating array of celebrity portraits, displaying his unique ability to reveal the essence of his subjects. This book can help photographers refine their approach to portraiture, encouraging them to search for the authentic and unexpected in their own work.

"Herb Ritts: Men/Women": This book offers a fascinating exploration of Ritts' black-and-white photography, capturing the beauty and strength of the human form. This volume provides insight into Ritts' approach to composition and lighting, inspiring to push the boundaries of creative practice.

"Herb Ritts: Work": This retrospective showcases the breadth of Ritts' career, offering a comprehensive overview of his diverse body of work. By studying Ritts' evolution as an artist, photographers can gain valuable insight into the development of their own unique styles and visual narratives.

"Duo": In this collection, Herb Ritts presents intimate and striking portraits of celebrity couples, capturing the chemistry and connection between them. The book serves as a valuable resource for photographers looking to enhance their skills in capturing emotion and the dynamics between subjects in their own portraiture.

"Africa": In this visually stunning book, Ritts turns his lens to the landscapes, wildlife, and people of Africa. The collection offers photographers a chance to study Ritts' keen eye for composition and his ability to evoke emotion through imagery, encouraging them to explore new subjects and settings in their own work.

Quotes

"I think knowing people by first names, not by what they do sexually, is really what it's about. Not being afraid. Fear is the enemy. I've always said that a camera is a great shield. When you have a camera in your hand, you feel like you're protected."

"For me, a photograph is most successful when it doesn't answer all the questions and leaves something to be desired."

"With photography, I like to create a fiction out of reality. I try and do this by taking society's natural prejudice and giving this a twist."

"In the end, I still believe there's a place for what I do, and for the type of images I make. I think people will always be drawn to the human form, to the beauty of the human body."

"I always liked the simplicity of things. The most fun I had was doing portraits and nudes outdoors with natural light."

Legacy and Influence

Herb Ritts left an indelible mark on the world of fashion photography, and his iconic images continue to inspire new generations of photographers. His emphasis on simplicity, elegance, and the beauty of the human form has influenced the work of many contemporary photographers.

Other notable photographers with similar style are:

  • Peter Lindbergh, known for his cinematic, black-and-white portraits of models and celebrities

  • Bruce Weber, celebrated for his sensual and intimate images of male and female models

  • Annie Leibovitz, whose dramatic, stylized portraits have become synonymous with Vanity Fair and Rolling Stone covers

  • Steven Meisel, a prolific fashion photographer with a penchant for storytelling and pushing boundaries in his images

Herb Ritts' timeless photographs serve as a testament to his exceptional talent and his enduring impact on the world of fashion photography. His legacy lives on through the countless photographers who continue to be inspired by his work and through the unforgettable images he left behind.

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